Why It’s Worth Visiting The Atlantic Beaches Of Bordeaux

Real Estate

Beach at Soulac-sur-MerTom Mullen

Bordeaux is the name of a French city and a commune, as well as a style of wine. The name derives from a 6th century B.C.E. Celtic tribe known as the Bituriges Vivisci. Male inhabitants are known as bordelaise and women as bordelaises. Although those who live elsewhere often associate Bordeaux with a city or wine, the general region also includes an excellent array of lively beaches. From the tip of the Médoc peninsula in the north toward the Spanish border in the south, sandy beaches line the shores of this region, and in summer the scene livens up with surfing, kite surfing, sailing, bicycling and family parties.

The general region outside of Bordeaux city and its wine appellations is the administrative region (of which there are 18 in France) of Nouvelle Aquitaine. This is the largest such region in the country (more sizable than the country of Austria, as well as the U.S. state of West Virginia, or South Carolina). The region is subdivided into a dozen ‘departments,’ one of which is the Gironde. This includes the heart of a general, though less loosely defined, region of Bordeaux.

A surfer rides a wave in the Atlantic Ocean in Lege-Cap Ferret (photo credit: Olivier Morin/AFP/Getty Images)

The Atlantic shoreline of the Gironde runs from south of the Dune du Pilat northward to the Pointe de Grave—furthest point of what is known as the Médoc peninsula. This stretch of some 80 miles (130 kilometers) of coastline is mostly beaches. The shortest inland driving distance between these two points is about two and a half hours.

The southernmost sand of note on this Atlantic strip within the Gironde is the 360 foot (110 meter) high and almost 2 mile (3 kilometer) long Dune du Pilat, largest sand dune in Europe. After hiking up, this is a place to share sundowner wine with friends while looking at the entrance to the Bay of Arcachon. On the opposite side of this water is Cap Ferret with its beaches and upscale restaurants where many Bordelais/es keep summer homes (though they generally avoid town during the chilly months of winter). Here, climb 258 steps to the top of the lighthouse and take in a visual panorama of the Bay of Arcachon. You can also visit a nature reserve that protects flora growing on local salt meadows.

Dune du Pilat (photo credit: Shutterstock)

Further north is Lacanau-Océan, a beach that attracts Bordeaux surfers. Most beaches here run between the Atlantic surf and extensive forests that cover much of the Médoc peninsula. Lacanau beach in the summer is reminiscent of southern California with its vibrant atmosphere, sunning families, lots of laughter and ample and casual restaurants in town catering to different price preferences.

Further north is easygoing Hourtin Beach, with an associated town that stays relatively uncrowded. For lunch here try fresh tuna with herbal vinaigrette sauce, and wine such as a Château Pouyannne white from Graves. Delicious, all. North of that is Montalivet-les-Bains, known for its nude beach. This beach is buffered by a forest that is in turn skirted by bicycle paths where (clothed) couples and families cycle. There are also non-nude beaches in the vicinity. This region includes plenty of bicycling for all ages, surfing, kite surfing, beach volleyball and beach soccer. The town’s abbreviation in ‘Monta,’ hence a sign, for example, for Monta Surf School.

Women play sandball on the beach at Montalivet (photo credit: Nicolas Tucat/AFP/Getty Images)

There are 10 forests with 60 square miles (155 square kilometers) of managed trees in the region of Montalivet and Hourton alone. The shade of forests is conducive to summer bicycling, and there are several excellent paths here—for day trips or weeklong excursions. These include wooded paths parallel to the shoreline. The Vélodyssée (which is part of the Eurovélo 1 route running from the coast of Norway to Spain) runs 110 miles (178 kilometers) through the Gironde—from Pointe-de-Graves down to the Bay of Arcachon. Bicyclists include day-trippers and more serious long distance peddlers laden with stuffed panniers.

Next comes Soulac-sur-Mer, which because of its location is more popular with visitors from the closer city of Royan than from the city of Bordeaux. They catch the 25-minute car ferry over to Pointe-de-Grave on the Médoc peninsula and spend the day. Many travel only with bicycles to enjoy a beach visit or a cycling excursion. The shore includes a replica Statue of Liberty, made from the same molds as used for models of the original; the town bought this in the 1980’s from where it had been stored, and neglected, in Paris. It looks across the Atlantic, celebrating liberty.

Replicate statue of liberty at Soulac-sur-MerTom Mullen

Soulac is filled with bicycling families and beach goers. Here you can visit the 12th century Romanesque UNESCO World Heritage Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Fin des Terres, a Benedictine abbey along the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. The town holds open-air concerts, food and dance festivals, firework displays and shoreline ecologic tours during summer. Local sites include monuments to the hundreds of Allies who died during the Second World War in battles to reclaim this land from occupying forces. North of Soulac, at Les Cantines, is the Fish & Twins Surf School that caters to families.

From the harbor at Pointe-de-Graves, at the tip of the peninsula, you can look into the Atlantic Ocean at Courdouan Lighthouse, first built in the 13th century and later replaced in 1789. At 221 feet (67.5 meters) high this navigation beacon at the entrance of the Gironde estuary has operated for centuries.

Looking from Soulac-sur-Mer to Cordouan LighthouseTom Mullen

If you visit Bordeaux during spring, summer or fall, do more than walk around the city and tour wineries. Pack lunch, towel, sunscreen, corkscrew and a bottle of Bordeaux wine—then head west through forests to one of Gironde’s lively beaches.

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